As the far-right movement gains traction in various areas of Germany, researchers have observed an increasing boldness among some supporters in publicly expressing their views, often without overtly political symbols. This subtle messaging has been spotted at recent rallies for the Alternative for Germany (AfD), where seemingly innocuous items like sneakers or T-shirts bear coded references.
Experts note that certain brands like New Balance and Lonsdale are being utilized as covert signals for nationalist and Nazi ideologies, a practice particularly noteworthy in Germany due to strict laws prohibiting the display of Nazi symbols. Gideon Botsch, from Potsdam University’s Research Unit on Antisemitism and Right-Wing Extremism, highlighted the prevalence of these coded symbols at such events, ranging from clear neo-Nazi emblems to more discreet references.
For instance, some individuals have co-opted New Balance sneakers, interpreting the brand’s “N” logo as representing “nationalist” and “NB” as “Nationale Bewegung” (national movement). Similarly, Lonsdale’s sportswear has seen a resurgence among the far right, as the brand’s logo can be arranged to spell out NSDA, linked to Germany’s National Socialist Party.
These subtle signals cater to a select audience, as German laws specifically prohibit overt Nazi symbols, leaving room for such coded expressions to evade legal consequences. This shift towards coded messaging has become more prevalent, with extremists opting for symbols recognizable only to those familiar with their meanings.
The growing political landscape in Germany has set the stage for the AfD’s rise from a fringe party in 2013 to a dominant force in Saxony-Anhalt. If successful in the upcoming state election, the AfD could achieve an unprecedented absolute majority for a far-right party in post-World War II Germany.
Experts note a blurred boundary between hardcore neo-Nazis and the broader right-wing populist movement, with neo-Nazi elements actively endorsing the AfD and viewing its success as a means to advance their own agendas. While not everyone sporting brands like New Balance or Lonsdale is an extremist, the intertwining of typical far-right symbols and narratives is evident among certain individuals.
The shift towards more overt displays of these coded symbols mirrors the growing confidence of Germany’s far right and the AfD. This shift is indicative of an evolving societal landscape where such expressions are increasingly tolerated and even embraced by certain factions.
Lonsdale, a British sportswear company, has a long history of combating its association with the far right and has implemented anti-racism initiatives to counter this appropriation. Despite efforts to distance itself from extremist ties, Lonsdale has noted a resurgence of far-right adoption of its brand, prompting swift action to cease supply to retailers involved in extremist contexts.
In contrast, brands like Thor Steinar, known for its Nordic and runic imagery, have clearer ties to Germany’s far-right scene, making them more overt indicators of extremist affiliations. The brand’s original rune logo faced legal scrutiny for resembling banned SS symbolism, leading to modifications to comply with regulations.
Overall, the utilization of coded clothing symbols by the far right in Germany reflects a nuanced approach to ideological expression in a legally restrictive environment, highlighting the complex interplay between fashion, politics, and extremism.
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